October 16, 2003
Kyoto
A very quick update as my internet time is severely restricted tonight... I have been incredibly busy the last few days. Traveled from Tokyo to Kyoto on the bullet train. The journey was only remarkable in that it was very clean, very fast, and very expensive, and I had a glimpse of Mt. Fuji as we screamed by (it was gone before I made it back to my seet for my camera.)
I spent my first 4 nights in a very regimented youth hostel. Which was actually really nice. I spent last night (and will do the same tonight) in a japanese guest house, which was recommended by the local tourist office. Unfortunately it's missing several of the Japanese things I was expecting, so it's mostly like being in a western hotel... Tomorrow, I'm heading back to the YH.
Accomodation asside, I have walked all over western and eastern Kyoto. I have seen temples, gardens, cemetaries, ceremonies, shrines, shops, restaurants, lots of flowers and lots of trees some of which are just starting to turn to lovely autumn colors.
I have also participated in tea ceremony 4 or 5 times (I hope no one out there is surprised ;) Last night I visited a really great tea ceremony class that is hosted by a Canadian expat named Randy Channell (see his website if you like.) It was so great to get clear descriptions of some of the ceremony. Tonight I joined in a class at the Kyoto International Community House where I was able to prepair Sencha tea (the teacher sitting next to me telling me which: hand, finger, utensil, cup to: pick-up, put-down, turn over, hold, re-hold, pour, roll, etc. It was really great and quite overwhelming! Apparently there are 24 slightly different ceremonies based on the season (major changes 2 times a year, and minor changes every 2 weeks or so.) I see how this has to be a lifetime study!!! Then there are differences for Matcha (powder tea), Sencha (green leaf tea), Gyokuro (sweet green leaf tea), Chinese, Black, etc... And differences for different utensils, containers, etc... Wow!
A couple of days ago I spent the day with a couple other guys from the youth hostel. We went to a "Doll Burning" ceremony. Lots of dolls were displayed... luckily we didn't see any of them being burned (most had some plastic parts.) Many were very beautiful. As far as we could tell the main purpose of the ceremony was to allow the spirits/energies in the dolls to be released after good service/work. Anyhow, there were quite a few Nuns, a Geisha, Two Maiko (sp? - aprentice geisha) and a musician who played a lovely one stringed instrument. It was really magical, and quite an honor to be allowed into the inner sanctum of the nunnary for some of the ceremony!
Times almost up so will leave it there.
Posted by binduwavell at October 16, 2003 05:56 AMDo go for a walk along the "Path of Philosophy" (follows a canal, forgotten the Japanese name) and keep an eyes out for some giant carp. The LP Kyoto guide says do it in the evening (which we did), but note that the nearby temples may be closed by this time.
If you haven't already been, Kinkaku-ji (Golden temple) is a very quick visit, but Ryoan-ji (Zen rock garden), which is not far by foot, has quite pleasant surrounds.
The free Imperial Palace tour is interesting, remember to arrive early. We were a bit late, but were still allowed to join the tour.
The Ponto-cho restaurant area is interesting at night, though the restaurants are not exactly welcoming on first glance. The covered Teramachi and Shinkyogokyo arcades are nothing spectacular, and the Nishiki markets alright, although if you have been to the Tsukiji external markets in Tokyo you will have seen a wider variety of food.
If you can, fit in a trip to Himeji-jo - half a day is probably enough - and take a look at the castle.
Have fun!
Posted by: allrite on October 16, 2003 07:06 PMI have walked the full length of the path of philosophy twice ;) I loved the garden at Ginkaku-ji! Really spectacular!
Visited Kinkaku-ji, which as you say is quite quick, but also very lovely. Went to Ryoan-ji, I liked the surrounding gardens, but was not impressed by their zen garden... Guess I'm not zen enough ;) I liked the zen garden at Ginkaku-ji much more!
Walked around Ponto-cho, but didn't end up trying any of the restaurants, as you say they are not particularly welcoming at first flance... Some really lovely landscaping though! Too bad I had recently eaten when I walked there.
Will definately look into Himeji-jo.
Thanks very much for all the advice!!!
Posted by: Bindu Wavell on October 16, 2003 07:41 PMSadly Ginkaku-ji has closed when we were in the area (I really didn't enjoy travelling around Kyoto by bus, but I hate bus trip everywhere but Canberra). Kyoto might be famous for its traditional foods, but we ended up in a "modern" Japanese restaurant in Ponto-cho - food was interesting and it was nice to see some creativity in cooking with traditional ingredients and not just the same old thing!
A bit late but...thanks for the kind words! (Though I wonder about getting 'clear descriptions!) Anyway I hope you enjoyed your time in my keikoba and I look forward to serving you again!
If you or any reading this are in Kyoto on Dec 31 I'll be hosting a gathering for the last tea of the year.
